published in the May 2019 printed issue of Groove Magazine

It was a drizzly morning, the driver was dexterously steering the left-handed car through the Kathmandu traffic when “Monkeys!”, my sons shouted pointing to a roof in one of the houses lining the streets. As if sensing their excitement, more monkeys emerged out of previously unnoticed holes playfully bouncing around as if they are in their natural habitat. The irony is that, the streets of Kathmandu have seemingly become their natural habitat judging from the number of monkeys coming out every now and then. Kathmandu is a perfect illustration of the harmonious co-existence of men, monkeys, dogs, and cows in an urban milieu! They are left undisturbed, even revered in the case of cows.

ACCOMMODATION

As we were inching our way towards the Soaltee Crowne Plaza, more monkeys playfully crossed the narrow road exclusively used for hotel guests. Soaltee Crowne is a wide compound of buildings that make up for the main hotel, conference halls, the Regal Suites, pool, casino, and a wide lawn that makes it a world apart from the busy, narrow roads of Kathmandu’s everyday life. The first glimpse of the hotel was a little disappointing. Soaltee Crowne is, after all, fit for the Heads of State and the British Royals! The 50+ year old hotel accommodated the late Princess Diana and is still the place to go to for visiting Heads of State.

But standing on its lobby surrounded by multi-layered walls of mahogany and white clean lines, we instantly changed our mind. After several days of staying at the hotel, we left with respect for the old grandeur it holds for a country still slowly but progressively recovering from tragedies, and the kindness that the managers and staff effortlessly extended to their visitors.

FOOD

“Food is a central activity of mankind and one of the single most significant trademarks of a culture.” – Mark Kurlansky

Eating goes hand in hand with traveling so a trip to restaurants serving authentic country dishes constantly forms part of the itinerary. Nepal offers ample culinary dishes to choose from but dal bhat and momos top the list of dishes to try! There are countless restaurant recommendations where to get the best Nepalese cuisine, but how about learning to cook it yourself?

So, I scheduled a cooking class with Nepal Cooking School to get the most out of the food culture experience! Nepal Cooking School was established in January 2016 to provide Nepali cooking classes to tourists. The profit goes to the funding of Journey Nepal projects, a social organization in Kathmandu working in partnership with the women and children to provide opportunities for education, employment and skills training. As scheduled, I arrived at the Thamel address of the cooking school. I chose the dishes so that we can go to the market to buy the necessary ingredients. Yes, going to the market is part of the class so you get to experience the hustle and bustle of Thamel with a local and like a local. I chose this menu set for my cooking experience: egg rolls, dal (yellow lentil soup), Nepali aachar, chicken curry, stir fried greens, and choco momo for dessert. I wouldn’t have known that a momo can also be a dessert and it’s possible to put in choco instead of meat and vegetables.

PLACES TO VISIT

A Kathmandu visit isn’t one if you don’t see yourself standing in Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It is heavily-damaged and reconstruction is painstakingly slow. The remains of the buildings have magnificent woodworks and it isn’t hard to imagine how spectacular it once was. Inside Durbar Square is the Kumari Ghar, home of Nepal’s living goddess. But she isn’t one for the tourists to gawk at. Tourists aren’t supposed to see her, but if you’re lucky enough, you can see her sans camera. You cannot take photos of the living goddess, she is protected and worshipped. She is believed to be a reincarnation of the Hindu goddess Taleju and for Newar Buddhists, she is the embodiment of the supreme female deity Vajradevi.

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site is the Swayambhunath, or the Monkey Temple. It is a haven for monkeys. They are all around playing, jumping, and living nonchalantly going around with locals and tourists. It is home to them, they cannot be disturbed. Instead, visitors go about respecting their spaces. They are the holy monkeys of Swayambhunath because they are lice which transformed into monkeys from the head of Manjushree, the bodhisattva of wisdom. I love this legend! For tourists, the hilltop where the largest stupa stands is a perfect place to view the city of Kathmandu. You get to see the city from a distance without going through the smell, noise, and chaos of the city.

The shopping center of Thamel is vibrant with its colors and noise. Plus the smell of all the Nepali dishes emanating from various restaurants invites the hungry and the curious. Incense completes the sensory overload. Even in the busy and narrow alleys of the touristy shopping center, spirituality is in every corner of Thamel. Be prepared for the dazzle of colors going around for shopping. You’ll be tempted to haggle, the excitement lies in haggling when shopping, after all. But I suggest not. The 2019 average salary in Nepal is 34,490 Nepalese Rupee or around 310 US dollars. Enjoy Kathmandu and what it offers and deal with its people with compassion. Nepalese are welcoming, always with a ready smile.

Just when you think there is hardly any corner for peace and quiet, the Garden of Dreams provides solace. It is merely a walk from the shopping area. Its white gate is a portal to a world in complete contrast to the chaos and the dusty roads around it. Despite the number of tourists coming in, you can find your own spot for an hour or two of tranquility.

Getting a Nepal tourist visa is uncomplicated. Visa upon arrival can be processed at the airport for 25US dollars but gratis for children under 10 years old. Bring a passport size photo and fill-out the application form handed on the airplane or you can also get a form at the airport upon arrival.

Namaste!

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