(published in the October 2018 print edition of Groove Magazine)
The Philippines is known for its white sand beaches, tranquil, blue waters and a scattered paradise of green islands. As an archipelago with 7, 641 islands, paradise is almost everywhere. So, it is not surprising when people from all over the world know it for the charm of its natural resources.
But for all its natural beauty, it is also a country with a rich history that wishes to be told and retold. Its past is both glorious and tragic. Pages of history books immortalize centuries-old stories of tragedy and valor. Some stories don’t get to be written. But we have ancestors who love to tell tales and so history lives on. We have great grandparents passing on to their great grandchildren, who care to listen, lessons from the past via oral tradition. When we catch moments like this, we know it is special because of its rarity. It is history being passed on.
So, when a town takes the ultimate concerted effort to preserve history and heritage, it deserves more than a second look. It deserves to be travelled to, its streets deserve detailed attention, its houses deserve to be visited. This is exactly what the Taal Town in Batangas is calling us to do.
Taal is a Heritage Town, home of the proud Batangueños and their ancestral houses. Its población (the town’s central business district) has been designated as a National Historical Landmark. Rightly so, because there is no one single town that can claim honor to be the home of the greatest number of personalities that has shaped Philippine history.
The Pio Goco Walking Tour
I got to have a glimpse of the glorious days of illustrado (Filipino middle class during the Spanish colonial period in the late 19th century) lunches at the Goco Ancestral House when Pio Goco, a proud Taaleño and Goco descendant, invited my husband and our family to experience his walking tour of Taal. His walking tour always starts with his regaling story-telling at the ground floor of his family’s ancestral house. He is an eloquent story teller, entertaining, funny and filled with pride of his roots and his people. I especially enjoyed his family anecdotes. He knows what he is talking about. He lives it from the time he was born. His family lives amidst the unfolding of history. His family is part of the making of history. The thick walls of the Goco Ancestral House have borne witness to the struggles of the revolutionary forces against the Spanish rule. This is the reason why this house in the corner of Marella and Del Castillo Streets holds a historical mark indicating it is a Heritage house registered under the National Historical Institute.
Pio’s storytelling brought us back to the founding of Taal in 1572 and the tales of the Our Lady of Caysasay, the town’s most revered so much so that miracles were attributed to her. Today, a Shrine in her honor is one of the most visited places especially in a country predominantly Catholic. The Shrine is separated with 125 granite steps from the illustrious part of the town. Up here, this is where the ancestral houses stand strong and imposing. The streets are lined by regal stone houses.
The Ancestral Houses
As mentioned above, there is no other town that can boast having the most number of historical figures who helped shape Philippine history. Marcella Mariño de Agoncillo grew up and lived in this town. She made her mark in history as the woman whose skilled craftsmanship made the first Philippine flag. Upon the request of the Philippine’s first President, Emilio Aguinaldo, she finished the symbolic Philippine flag in 5 days, in time for Aguinaldo’s trip back to the Philippines. She was married to Felipe Agoncillo, another wealthy Taaleño who became the first Filipino diplomat. Their house now serves as a museum with several galleries each featuring the life of the couple and the history of the nation. Marcella Agoncillo’s statue is aptly surrounded by several Philippine flags.
The stately white house popularly called the Gregorio Agoncillo Mansion is a well-preserved mansion in the middle of the town. This is where Felipe Agoncillo was also born, and his statue welcomes visitors right in front of the house. Maria Agoncillo, sister of Gregorio, became the second wife of the Philippine’s first President, Emilio Aguinaldo.
Another house that stands out in Taal is the Apacible House. This is now managed by the National Historical Commission. Home of the 2 Apacible Brothers, Leon and Galicano, the house has gathered historical details instrumental to the Philippine’s fight for Independence.
There are a lot more ancestral houses I haven’t visited and even more that aren’t open to visitors but silently watch as tourists – both local and foreign – walk its narrow roads. These are testimonies why Taal is a Heritage Town, waiting to be explored and discovered.
The most magnificent structure served as the last stop of Pio Goco’s Walking Tour: the Taal Basilica formally known as the Basilica de San Martin de Tours. It is the biggest Catholic Church in Southeast Asia. It is in the center of Taal, drawing people all around. When the bells toll, the faithful bows. The imposing basilica, golden when the sun sets, serves as the anchor of their faith.
How to go to Taal
Taal Town is in the province of Batangas, 2 hours south of Manila. It is accessible by public transportation but is best and fastest reached by private transport by way of South Luzon Expressway taking the Lipa Exit. Walking tours by Pio Goco is best reached through its Facebook page: Goco Ancestral House.
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Taal Town looks great, especially for architecture lovers and history buffs. I think thats my favorite part about the Philippines – the ancient architectural design. I was a little surprised to see a url inside one of the buildings, until I understood that its your watermark. Afterwards, I searched for it in every single shot, kind of playing Where is Waldo game 😛
Do you put watermark in your blog photos? Especially you’re a professional photographer.
I’d love to go there. Those older buildings are right up my alley of interest. I love seeing the places of yore intermingling with the people of today. Looks like you had a great trip there.
Yes, it was a good trip. I hope you get to visit the Philippines, Hallie.
This looks stunning! Totally my kind of destination too full of history, stories and fabulous old houses 😍! I will definitely tick it off my list next year!
I hope you get to go next year… check out the Goco Walking Tour for a more memorable experience.
Hummm… I’ve not been to Taal, but do plan on spending some significant time in the Philippines in the upcoming future. I’ve only visited Manila and Legazpi on Luzon. I struggle to keep my facts straight when it comes to Filipino history, and it was nice to see that you included some useful dates here about the Spanish colonial period.
Try to go South of Manila next time. There are also beaches there when you want to relax, beautiful scenery and this heritage town. I’m looking forward to hearing from you when you get to visit.
Taal is definitely not just about its famous little volcano. 💕 Great photos, Wendy! Love the ancestral houses. 💕
I remember iyong pinuntahan nin noon na bahay ni Rizal. Amazing talaga itong mga historical places. Sana mas sipagan pa ang pag maintain para hindi tuluyang mawala..😊
at sana sipagin din tyaong mga local tourists na suportahan sila para mas mamemaintain nila:-)
I never thought Taal has a lot to offer! Hope to visit all these places soon, too! Love the photos!
Wow! Never pa ako nakapunta ng taal talaga. I should put this on my list for my next travel. Thanks for sharing! 🙂
Wait! This article is the one I’ve shared on my personal Facebook account! This is so catchy to all the readers and I love the whole content and the images taken! Great article!
thank you.. i hope your FAcebook friends will be encouraged to go and visit Taal, too:-)
I didn’t know there’s a Taal town in Batangas. I’m just familiar with the beaches there and that’s it. It’s a good thing that you’re writing more abt this province, as it gives us more options on what to do there esp heritage tours.
i really appreciate the heritage tour. i hope we Filipinos will support that initiative by going there and visiting.
I never thought that there’s much to explore in Taal! Those old churches looked stunning 🙂
I always see the Taal Volcano whenever I visit Tagaytay. It’s a shame that I haven’t visited the Taal Heritage Town. I live in Cavite and it’s just few hours away from Batangas. I’ll make sure to see this within the year. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for sharing this place. It is now rare to see ancentral homes as many chooses to tear them down and opt for modernization. I am intrigue of this walking tour maybe I’ll try it very soon.
Yes, do try it. and don’t forget to check out Pio. He knows what he is talking about because it is his family’s heritage home.
Wow! Never been to taal town! Place looks majestic and full of history. I should visit this soon!
i hope you will soon and tell me about it.
It looks so vintage ang ganda ng architectural ng mga church. Hopefully hindi ito masyado nasalanta ng recent Taal eruption.
Shame on me. I am from Batangas and before I got married, we live just 1 town away but I’ve never seen the beauty of Taal as much as you’ve seen it. Haay! Hopefully, all these are still standing when the eruption is over. I will be sure to visit these places and appreciate it as much as you do. Thank you. 🙂
Taal is such a beautiful place. I remember playing by the lake when my grand father was still alive almost 2 decades na din ago. He would drop by his tilapia pond. Hope they rise up and i know they will
I have never been in Taal yet. You are lucky to visit and experience it before the eruption. I’ll take note of this itinerary so that after the rehabilition, I’ll a have a handy guide with me. Thanks a lot!
Aww this breaks my heart knowing that Taal and nearby areas are affected by the Taal Volcano eruption 🙁 Hope they will recover soon. Praying for everyone’s safety.
– Hazel https://hazywanders.com/
I know, it’s heartbreaking.
Di pa ako nakakarating ng taal pero dahil po dito sa blogs mukhang highly recommend nga po sya puntahan
samna makabisita po kayo pag ok na ang mundo natin.
Opo Ms.Wendy
This blog makes me so sad. We’ve been planning on visiting Taal with the kids but we haven’t gotten to do it yet. I hope that it can still be revived after all the calamity.
I hope so, too. I hope you and your kids will have the chance to visit someday and still find the town intact.
Taal definitely is a National Historical Landmark! It’s just too sad that the Taal volcano is currently spewing ashes. I hope that the ancestral homes will be okay once the volcano calms down.
– Rad (Always looking to add or improve skills I find interesting. Check out my research and experiments at http://www.radrookies.com)
Batangas isn’t that far from here, but I’ve never really explored the place. There’s so much to see pala no?
yes, and I hope they stand resilient. lots of history gone if the Heritage Town gets lost because of the eruption.
Yay ! Ang ganda po pala dito . Hindi pa ako nakartting dito pero ang dami ko nkikita na mga post bout dito . Hope makarting din kmi dito ❤️😊
Nadadaanan ko to nun naospital si lolo sa taal hospital. Maganda, preserve talaga nila yung mga old houses. Para kang bumalik sa old era 😊
that’s true. a walking tour of the town will really make you imagine how it is living there in the past.
never pa po aq nakapunta ng taal napaka historical po pla tlaga ng mga places dito, napanood q po ito sa tv mommy wendy after nung eruption na nangyare karamihan jan sobrang naapektuhan tlaga, daming nasira, well sana po tlga maibalik nila sa dati kc ung ganyang kagagandang lugar, sobrang nakakapanghinayang po tlaga 🥺❤
Opo. I love that they have old houses like these pa po.
Taal has so much to offer pala! I love the Ancestral House! The stories behind it is lakas maka throwback. Hoping to be able to visit this soon. 😊
Di ba? It has so much to offer and it will make us proud of our heritage. If only, we learn to appreciate what we have.
Grabe ms wendy ang gaganda naman ng mga lugar nato worth it to visit gusto ko talaga pumunta sa taal isa yan sa gusto kong puntahan with the fam nakakarelax po kasi talaga doon and perfect for everyone , nice blog ms wendy ang galing at ganda ng content nyo po 🤗❤